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| Integral bolsters/forged blades. | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Aug 9 2011, 08:56 PM (2,889 Views) | |
| Bear_Blade | Aug 9 2011, 08:56 PM Post #1 |
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Line Cook
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So, I have a customer interested in an O1 knife with integral bolsters. This got me thinking, how many pros/serious users, appreciate the forged blade vs stockremoval blades. In this context, forged blades, are integral bolsters something you would be willing to pay a little extra for? Forgeing is also more expensive than stock removal. Grain refinement is tougher. What type of transition from blade to handle would be prefered? Convex, straight angled, concave? Thoughts? |
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| tk59 | Aug 9 2011, 09:55 PM Post #2 |
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Line Cook
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I like the look of integral bolsters and would pay extra for them. Pinned bolsters often get a little rust or other unsightly material wedged in a seem here or there. "What type of transition from blade to handle would be prefered? Convex, straight angled, concave? Thoughts?" I don't get it... |
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| Bear_Blade | Aug 9 2011, 10:03 PM Post #3 |
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Line Cook
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"What type of transition from blade to handle would be prefered? Convex, straight angled, concave? Thoughts?" I don't get it... Where the bolster begins on the blade face, and transitions to the handle scales. Fowler did some concave or hollow. The last damasteel suji and petty I did with copper bolsters have an angled face, not sure if a rounded convex bolster would make sense. |
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| rockbox | Aug 10 2011, 02:56 AM Post #4 |
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The Instigator
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I did not like the hollowed bolster transistion on Fowlers knife at all. I think I like convex or straight. Couldn't you weld on the bolster instead of pinning it? Or maybe solder the joints to prevent food from getting it. It appears that is what knives like Tojiro do because there is no gap between the blade and bolster. |
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| Bear_Blade | Aug 10 2011, 06:43 AM Post #5 |
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Line Cook
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The copper bolsters I did recently are silver soldered on. Welding would work, but the whole knife would have to be normalized, then annealed to reduce stress, prior to HT again, and the weld would alvays show, unless if was forge welded, and if I got to run the forge, I may as well forge the whole thing from round bar. Again the question would be what shape to make the bolsters. |
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| Pensacola Tiger | Aug 10 2011, 08:33 AM Post #6 |
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Dish Washer
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I like those by Michael Rader: Posted Image |
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| rockbox | Aug 10 2011, 09:46 AM Post #7 |
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The Instigator
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I think the integral bolsters are nice but I don't think they are a show stopper. I think they are like the bolsters on German knives. Its so you can tell they are forged. |
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| Vertigo | Aug 10 2011, 07:00 PM Post #8 |
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Prep Cook
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Even clean pro kitchens are dirty kitchens. You break down fifty pounds of chicken, you get some funky goop on your knife. Pinned bolsters, even well crafted, have the potential to harbor funky goop (especially as heavy use and time makes tight seams less tight).
Edited by Vertigo, Aug 10 2011, 07:08 PM.
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| Bear_Blade | Aug 10 2011, 08:53 PM Post #9 |
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Line Cook
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On the Raider knife Rick shows, that is an example of a concave grind. I use a sealer between the bolster and blade, its something I started doing soon after I started concentrating on Kitchen knives. |
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| Vertigo | Aug 10 2011, 09:37 PM Post #10 |
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Prep Cook
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Yeah, I think what Rick shows is the most common type of integral bolster. Definitely what I'm used to seeing. As for using a sealer, I don't doubt that it's effective (nor have I had any troubles with the custom you made me), but commercial environments really take their toll on things--temps, chemicals, water, and tremendous use--the fewer parts that might separate the better, especially where the chicken goop can get in. Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image That thing is only like 4 years old. |
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| Bear_Blade | Aug 10 2011, 10:23 PM Post #11 |
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Line Cook
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Oh boy!! That needs lovin'! The stuff I use takes temps to 600F, doesn't move, and is quite impact resistant. You need to pop that old wood off, grt a set of $10 Dymondwood scales, and bring it back. |
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| Vertigo | Aug 10 2011, 10:26 PM Post #12 |
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Prep Cook
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Yeah, people think it's weird to have attachment to kitchen tools, but I like that guy a lot. Makes a great chime when you flick the steel. My first "rehandle" project, lol. |
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| rockbox | Aug 11 2011, 01:56 AM Post #13 |
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The Instigator
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For this reason, I wonder why the stainless steel handled knives aren't more popular. |
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| mr drinky | Aug 11 2011, 02:07 AM Post #14 |
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Line Cook
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I like integral bolsters similar to the one on the Rader knife or on the Hiros and would pay extra. For me it is more aesthetic though. I like the clean lines and less 'clutter' of knives with integral bolsters, and damascus integral bolsters are shockingly good looking IMO. When I was talking to Devin about making my custom, I asked about integral bolsters and he said it would be extra and then western handles would cost extra too. At the end of the day there can be a tipping point on cost between the integral/western handle package versus the cheaper wa fitting though. I went wa. k. Edited by mr drinky, Aug 11 2011, 02:10 AM.
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| Vertigo | Aug 11 2011, 04:00 PM Post #15 |
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Prep Cook
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Well I mean, have you seen a Chroma or Global? Good God, I'd rather give someone food poisoning. :devil: |
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